It is Wednesday already. It would be ironic to say that time is flying past. We are in a place where time has passed in abundance. On Monday, Walter invited us to join him on a tour he was giving for several Rabbis. We explored recent excavation around the Temple Mount in and under the Old City of Jerusalem. It turns out that the Canonites had considered the Gihon spring that emerges under the area of the Temple to be of quite some importance. They had built defenses of that spring with large hewn stone walls that extended down the valley. These stones weigh tons and were put in place about 2000 BCE, or about 4000 years ago. These Canonite defenses are a fairly new discovery. The discoveries and excavations are ongoing. In fact, I had an opportunity to look at some Herodian ruins that haven’t been opened for public display. We also looked at ruins of the City of David which is south of, and downhill from, the Temple Mount.
I want to add a brief note about Walter. I have had the good fortune to have been on many tours in my life. I have had excellent tour guides. None have come close to the level of sophistication and breadth of knowledge that Walter possesses about Israel. He is familiar with current politics and the historical background. He frequently quotes Josephus as he describes an area, or refers to other texts to provide a backdrop for the historic events. He knows the Torah inside and out and can combine the historic references and read the passages as he goes through the various locations. He also knows the New Testament inside and out and can identify the significant references just as readily as the Torah. If you visit Israel, it would be worth contacting him to see if he has an opening to guide you. Whatever he charges is well worth it. His expertise is unsurpassed in my experience. Thanks again Walter for answering so many of my questions with great patience. (for more Walter info, see: www.walterzanger.net)
I had an opportunity to go to the area around the Temple Mount. The Western Wall is a remnant of the foundation of the Second Temple. What is not known to most visitors is that the stones of the Western Wall were actually put in place by King Herod to extend the Temple Mount foundation, so it is not actually part of the original construction of the temple. The Western Wall is constructed from hewn stones. The largest known stone weighs 400 tons. The Western Wall is a location of worship. It is considered a holy place by many Jews. It is thought that the Second Temple was constructed on the First Temple ruins, and that those ruins were erected next to the city of David. It is also identified in the Torah as the location where Abraham was sent to sacrifice Isaac. There is big, big Jewish history in this place.
Prior to the attack on Israel in 1967 by Egypt and Jordan, Israelis did not think that they would have access to this historic place. They had been allowed to pray there by an edict by the Sultan of Turkey in the 18th Century under the British authority, much to the Arab population’s dismay. Jewish access to this area had become completely restricted later in the 18th Century. The area fell into the hands of Jordan in 1948 when the UN voted to create the Jewish State of Israel. When King Hussein of Jordan joined in with Egypt’s attack on Israel in 1967, the Israeli army responded with a counter attack that cut off the significant Jordanian and Egyptian supply lines. One of those supply lines was controlled by Ammunition Hill. I will discuss this site later, as I toured it and it is worth note. The defensive counter attack by the Israelis moved the border east to the Dead Sea and includes Jerusalem.
I had an opportunity to go to the Western Wall. As I approached the wall, I observed that the men and women approached separately and were placed in separated areas. I walked over to the left side, which is the men’s area, fighting off the overwhelming urge to go into the women’s section. The Wall is an impressive place both because of its mass and also because of its enormous history. Poking out of the stones are caper bushes. Yes, these are the very same bushes that produce the caper flower buds that are pickled and served with lox, bagels and cream cheese. They are tough little bushes and they have nasty thorns that are shaped like fish hooks. Don’t reach in and try to pick one!
Anyway, I’m standing there in front of the wall. I must preface again, that I had just toured the city of King David and walked down to the Siloam pool. This is the pool that is formed by the Gihon spring. Part of the historic sight is now a park, and visitors are able to walk along the path that led into the temple. The wall next to the path is the very same wall as the Western Wall, except is it a little further South and on the other side of the ramp which is where there was a walkway that led from a pavilion to the Second Temple. This area has now been excavated and the researchers have found an arch that extended from the wall a little further South. All of these findings are reflected in a miniature model of the Second Temple that is at the Israel Museum, which I also visited and photographed! Wow!!! After reviewing the history of the place with Walter, seeing the miniature model made the events very powerful to me.
OK, so again, I’m standing in front of the wall. I’m waiting for the glory of my religion to fall upon me. I had open arms, waiting for the light to shine. It didn’t. I am surrounded by people who are tearful at the experience of encountering this profound sight. I saw the religious people standing around praying. I saw them touching the Wall with reverence. I saw them having the sort of spiritual adventure in which I wanted to have the privilege to bask. My hands slid up to my hips and I pouted! What the heck is wrong with me!? Yes, I did feel excited to be a part of the historic place. Yes, I know the connection of this place with my people. Why the heck didn’t the religiosity of the moment spring into my heart and give me the epiphany that I came half way around the world to receive?! I felt spiritually inadequate.
I considered this inadequacy for a long time. I recognized that it reminded me of something that happened a few years ago. I was visiting the Santiago de Campestella while on a trip to Portugal and Spain. It is the location of great Christian religious significance. (Where St. Peter died, I think) and a place of pilgrimage from around the world. There are two pillars in the front of the church that are made of polished stone and people come from all over to touch the pillars and pray for divine intervention. When I saw the pillars, people were lined up to touch the pillars and have their moment to commune with the big three. The pillars have been rubbed so many times that they have been warn in the middle to form a bit of a bow. People would takes scraps of paper and write down their requests for divine intervention and cram them into the little holes that are part of the design in the bases of the pillars.
As I watched people approach the pillars, I could see their reaction to the experience. They were overwhelmed by the spiritual context. The church was dark and there was jewelly dappled light thrown across the floor by stained glass windows. This was their shot to get an E-ticket to the ear of the big upstairs. I found myself wanting to touch the pillars and to share in the spiritual moment. I stopped myself. The notion of my faith came to me in that moment that Jews do not believe in graven images having divine power. Jews cast away the idols of Greco/Roman tradition. Touching the pillars felt to me like a denial of my own faith in God. I had thought that the feeling was engendered because it was a Christian place. I now feel that it is just the notion that a place can be glorified so much that the place gains importance above the spiritual connection. It is the imposition of divine spirit on a place or thing. It felt too much like idolatry for my taste. I don’t believe in a spiritual E ticket.
Don’t misunderstand. There are places that warrant great respect, appreciation and reverence. The Western Wall, as a symbol of Jewish perseverance over adversity and ill will from all around, is an amazing place and warrants such respect. However, I have felt a greater level of spiritual connectedness serving food to the homeless in San Diego than I did standing elbow to elbow with Orthodox Jews at the Western Wall. Jerusalem is not a spiritual loadstone, but it is a powerful place. It contains a mass of people trying to connect with their faith and trying to do good work. I certainly appreciate the efforts of those who come to this place looking to recharge their spiritual batteries so that they can go home to attack their problems more effectively. Perhaps that is the divine intervention. Perhaps amassing the enthusiasm to continue in a positive direction and to grow and do good work is what the divine spirit really is all about. If a person comes here and leaves with a renewed sense of charity or a plan to mend their spirit by moving in a more positive direction, what better epiphany can one have? I have felt moved in that direction and I feel a better person for it. That is all the epiphany I could hope for.
On Wednesday and Thursday I toured various locations with Lee and on my own too. I spent a good deal of time at Yad Vashem. (the Jerusalem Holocaust museum.) It is set on a hill around the corner from En Karem, where we have been staying. The building is designed in the shape of a prism and sits on top of a mountain. As visitors walk through the museum, there are video screens that present clips from what are probably home movies of the various people before during and after the various historical events. The old movies are compelling. There are also interviews with survivors of the various slaughters and horrific events. At the end, there are testimonials by various survivors identifying the dead. They have three million documented Jewish people who have been specifically identified as being killed. They have documentation and estimate that another three million Jews were killed, but that all relatives and records were destroyed so that they cannot be more specifically identified. By the time I had completed the tour, I was whooped. I walked for an hour or so through the Cemetery next to the museum that has the tombs of great leaders of the country and then walked back home. I reflected on the experience as I walked home. Fight for freedom. Don’t let it slip away. Free expression, equality and due process are all fragile rights that can easily be eroded by bad decisions at times of crisis. Baruch Hashem.
We also visited Ammunition Hill. This is a location where the paratroopers had a conflict with Jordanians as the Israelis fought back after being attacked in the 1967 war. Ammunition Hill was a position of power that controlled the supply lines for the Jordanian military. In a conflict in the middle of the night, both sides suffered substantial casualties. The top area of the hill is trenched and would be very hard to approach. The Jordanians sitting in the trenches had an excellent position to shoot down on the approaching Israelis with maximum concrete cover. I don’t know how the Israelis were able to overcome these impressive defenses. It really was a miracle.
It is now Friday, and I am making dinner tonight for Walter, Paula, and a number of their guests. (Rabbis from out of town.) They did not think my initial suggestion of picnic pork shoulder and crab salad would be well received by the Rabbis….though they are Reform. I will come up with something interesting.
Friday, July 20, 2007
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Warren - a weekend in salt
Shabbat Shalom. It is Saturday and the day got off to a great start with a hike up to the top of Masada. There is nothing like a long hike up a mountain to the site of a monumental tragedy to get the juices flowing! As we climbed, I considered the legion of 8000 Roman soldiers gathering at the base of this impressive mountain. Here, in the middle of nowhere, at the lowest place on earth, next to an enormous sea that is comprised of liquid salt, the Romans considering how to attack the oddly placed palace of Masada. First, they laid siege to it. They didn’t know of Masada’s enormous hordes of water in underground cisterns, grains and dates. Eventually, the Romans built a siege tower and attacked with fire. There were less than a thousand Jewish rebels in Masada which included women and children. The remaining rebels, after the losses from the battles, committed suicide. Suicide is forbidden in Jewish law, so they drew lots to decide who would do the evil deed of suicide. First, they killed their wives and children, then they each killed another until there was only one man left. That last man was left to kill himself. Hearing of all of this massive destruction and the Jew’s courage to give their own lives rather than supplicate to a false god made us quite hungry. We hiked back down and went and enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast at the hotel. We are enjoying the Dead Sea and the pool. We are getting massages later. Life is good.
It is now Sunday. We are headed to Jerusalem today. We bathed in the Dead Sea yesterday. The water is syrupy with salt and other minerals and we floated on the top of the water due to the buoyancy.
I think there must be a reason that this place is called the Dead Sea and not the Salt Sea. It is eerie to me that there is no life in this large body of water. Seeing the salt cake on the shore and feeling the sand crunchy with salt was odd, but not troubling to me. However, considering the lack of wildlife in and around the sea was troubling to me. Where are the birds? Where are the fish? Where are all of the other animals that you tend to find around a pool of water? There were none. The salinity of the water is too high for life to survive in it. I have been told that the minerals in the water are very good for the skin. That may be. There is something about this place that gives me the feeling that nature was saying, “hey, don’t touch this!”
I had all but written off the Dead Sea, but on Sunday morning, we went for a hike at En Gedi National Park and visited Nachal David. Visiting this little canyon in the mountains next to the Dead Sea gave me a better understanding as to how people could actually live in this place. There are three springs that produce fresh water that runs in waterfalls off the mountain. There are many little animals and trees that surround this true dessert oasis. As we climbed around the area, I was struck by the contrast between the Dead Sea and this oasis paradise.
We are headed back up to Jerusalem. We are staying either with Walter and Paula, or in a house nearby. Walter and Paula are being wonderful hosts to us and treating us like royalty. Walter knows just about everything there is to know about Israel. He is one of Israel’s top tour guides, an ordained Rabbi and an historical scholar.
I am still wrestling with my overwhelming repulsion to the Dead Sea. Is this the place of Sodom and Gomorrah? Is this a place of death and destruction? Imagine the irony of placing luxury hotels and spas in this spot, if it was. “What are you applying to your dry skin?” “Oh, that is just the mineral remains of my long dead ancestors!” Before I gave the matter any real consideration, I had a feeling of dread about the place. Perhaps I just didn’t like the hotel.
It is now Sunday. We are headed to Jerusalem today. We bathed in the Dead Sea yesterday. The water is syrupy with salt and other minerals and we floated on the top of the water due to the buoyancy.
I think there must be a reason that this place is called the Dead Sea and not the Salt Sea. It is eerie to me that there is no life in this large body of water. Seeing the salt cake on the shore and feeling the sand crunchy with salt was odd, but not troubling to me. However, considering the lack of wildlife in and around the sea was troubling to me. Where are the birds? Where are the fish? Where are all of the other animals that you tend to find around a pool of water? There were none. The salinity of the water is too high for life to survive in it. I have been told that the minerals in the water are very good for the skin. That may be. There is something about this place that gives me the feeling that nature was saying, “hey, don’t touch this!”
I had all but written off the Dead Sea, but on Sunday morning, we went for a hike at En Gedi National Park and visited Nachal David. Visiting this little canyon in the mountains next to the Dead Sea gave me a better understanding as to how people could actually live in this place. There are three springs that produce fresh water that runs in waterfalls off the mountain. There are many little animals and trees that surround this true dessert oasis. As we climbed around the area, I was struck by the contrast between the Dead Sea and this oasis paradise.
We are headed back up to Jerusalem. We are staying either with Walter and Paula, or in a house nearby. Walter and Paula are being wonderful hosts to us and treating us like royalty. Walter knows just about everything there is to know about Israel. He is one of Israel’s top tour guides, an ordained Rabbi and an historical scholar.
I am still wrestling with my overwhelming repulsion to the Dead Sea. Is this the place of Sodom and Gomorrah? Is this a place of death and destruction? Imagine the irony of placing luxury hotels and spas in this spot, if it was. “What are you applying to your dry skin?” “Oh, that is just the mineral remains of my long dead ancestors!” Before I gave the matter any real consideration, I had a feeling of dread about the place. Perhaps I just didn’t like the hotel.
Friday, July 13, 2007
Warren Day 5-7
It has been a few days since we have had effective internet access. Here is an update on our progress.
We slept in Zvat. Zvat is a small mountain town that has a rich history. It is known for study of Kabalah. (Jewish mysticism.) It is a heap of large stones packed together to form buildings and synagogues. In this place of amazing spiritual meditation, Lee and I spent most of our time shopping. In our defense, the city is also an artist’s colony and the galleries are a major source of revenue for this small town. We must have walked into at least a hundred shops and they all had unique little items. We did our part to support their economy. We also got a chance to visit a cheese factory.
It is now Wednesday, and my father’s birthday. (Happy Birthday dad!!!) We traveled first east and then south to Tiberias. It is near the southern tip of the Kinerett (Sea of Galillee) on the west side. We dropped our stuff off at the very nice little place we are staying for the next couple nights. We went exploring and drove to Sephoria (Zippori). There are historic ruins there of a city. It is famous for its water system and the amazing mosaics. There are ruins that date back to the time of the first temple and this spot has a rich Jewish history. It became the capital of Galilee and is mentioned multiple times in the Talmud and much of the writings that led to the Talmud originated there. In looking at the mosaics, there are many references to Roman theology. The researchers wonder if Jews put such mosaics in their homes because it was the style of the time. Another interesting element was the presence of very old olive trees around the entire area of the ruins.
We made a quick side trip to Nazareth. I would like to say that we had some deep meditative reason for going there. Really, I wanted to go to the Halavah factory. We had great Falafal, but we couldn’t find the factory….alas!! I am still complaining about it.
I spoke with Ben a few minutes ago and he is having fun in Mississippi. He is helping cook and doing dishes. If you are reading this from anywhere near Tupelo, go visit the Bistro on Main and have something he made!
As I am sitting here writing, I’m looking at a sweeping panoramic that includes the southern tip of the Sea of Galilee. It is a nice perch from which to contemplate the history that we have been absorbing over the past few days. This is the land of Abraham. The places we have seen are places that I have heard about on Saturday mornings throughout my life. I can’t say that it has provided me a religious epiphany, but it is really stimulating to have the words come to life!!!
We have now transitioned to a really nice little restaurant that sits on a wharf. We are watching the large fish consume our leftover pita. We are considering tossing other items into the water, but I don’t thing the fish will eat the beer mugs…..
It is early Friday morning. I just awoke. The roosters are calling…the mosquitoes are biting! Being near the Sea of Galilee, the mosquitoes are pretty abundant.
Yesterday, we got up early and traveled up the east side of the Sea of Galilee to Qazrin which is an ancient city, and again had great Talmudic importance. The structures were of hewn stone and fit together so well that they are still around today. We saw the wine press and the olive press. There is an ancient synagogue there too. We watched a movie at the Archeological Museum in Qazrin about the fall of Gamla. The Romans defeated the little hill top community, but the residents did not make it easy. It was such a tough battle that the Romans issued a coin depicting the Jews being supplicated by the Roman military.
We traveled further north to the area of Israel that sits between Jordan and Syria. We stopped to go rafting down the Jordan river. The guide told us that we could swim for the first bit of the journey, but after that we had to watch out for big frogs! We didn’t see any big frogs lurking in the water, but we didn’t take any chances!!! I did notice that some of the oars were damaged….were they frog bites? Lee thinks that the guy was actually talking about rocks.
We also had a chance to go up to the shoe factory at Naot-Mordechai. Cool shoes! Naot and Source sandals.
We proceeded further north and hired a guide who took us up through the Golan. The area is beautiful. There are hills on either side of the Jordan river and then further north, there are mountains. The guide explained the water supplies to Israel from the mountains to the north. He also explained some of the interesting changes that are taking place on the modern-day Kibbutz. A Kibbutz is a communal village. He explained that people were taking advantage of the resources without working to generate profits, so many of them went belly up. He told us that they have now gone to a system of individual reward for labor. The housing is still free. If the people who live there work, they receive money. If they do not, they don’t.
At last, a call to prayer. It is Friday afternoon and we have arrived at the Dead Sea. We have now been in Israel just over a week. We have been to some of the most holy of places in the Jewish religion, and I have not had a religious epiphany until today. As we drove down from The Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea, we traveled through the West Bank which is a Palestinian area. Lee was a bit nervous, was driving and was in a hurry to get through. As she passed a bus on a blind curve and another car decided to make a left behind the bus, I experienced religion in a new way. Perhaps that is why this is such a religious region. Perhaps the true drive for spiritual intervention and guidance is really a call for better driving. We are now at the hotel, I have changed my drawers and can resume my fairly secular life.
We slept in Zvat. Zvat is a small mountain town that has a rich history. It is known for study of Kabalah. (Jewish mysticism.) It is a heap of large stones packed together to form buildings and synagogues. In this place of amazing spiritual meditation, Lee and I spent most of our time shopping. In our defense, the city is also an artist’s colony and the galleries are a major source of revenue for this small town. We must have walked into at least a hundred shops and they all had unique little items. We did our part to support their economy. We also got a chance to visit a cheese factory.
It is now Wednesday, and my father’s birthday. (Happy Birthday dad!!!) We traveled first east and then south to Tiberias. It is near the southern tip of the Kinerett (Sea of Galillee) on the west side. We dropped our stuff off at the very nice little place we are staying for the next couple nights. We went exploring and drove to Sephoria (Zippori). There are historic ruins there of a city. It is famous for its water system and the amazing mosaics. There are ruins that date back to the time of the first temple and this spot has a rich Jewish history. It became the capital of Galilee and is mentioned multiple times in the Talmud and much of the writings that led to the Talmud originated there. In looking at the mosaics, there are many references to Roman theology. The researchers wonder if Jews put such mosaics in their homes because it was the style of the time. Another interesting element was the presence of very old olive trees around the entire area of the ruins.
We made a quick side trip to Nazareth. I would like to say that we had some deep meditative reason for going there. Really, I wanted to go to the Halavah factory. We had great Falafal, but we couldn’t find the factory….alas!! I am still complaining about it.
I spoke with Ben a few minutes ago and he is having fun in Mississippi. He is helping cook and doing dishes. If you are reading this from anywhere near Tupelo, go visit the Bistro on Main and have something he made!
As I am sitting here writing, I’m looking at a sweeping panoramic that includes the southern tip of the Sea of Galilee. It is a nice perch from which to contemplate the history that we have been absorbing over the past few days. This is the land of Abraham. The places we have seen are places that I have heard about on Saturday mornings throughout my life. I can’t say that it has provided me a religious epiphany, but it is really stimulating to have the words come to life!!!
We have now transitioned to a really nice little restaurant that sits on a wharf. We are watching the large fish consume our leftover pita. We are considering tossing other items into the water, but I don’t thing the fish will eat the beer mugs…..
It is early Friday morning. I just awoke. The roosters are calling…the mosquitoes are biting! Being near the Sea of Galilee, the mosquitoes are pretty abundant.
Yesterday, we got up early and traveled up the east side of the Sea of Galilee to Qazrin which is an ancient city, and again had great Talmudic importance. The structures were of hewn stone and fit together so well that they are still around today. We saw the wine press and the olive press. There is an ancient synagogue there too. We watched a movie at the Archeological Museum in Qazrin about the fall of Gamla. The Romans defeated the little hill top community, but the residents did not make it easy. It was such a tough battle that the Romans issued a coin depicting the Jews being supplicated by the Roman military.
We traveled further north to the area of Israel that sits between Jordan and Syria. We stopped to go rafting down the Jordan river. The guide told us that we could swim for the first bit of the journey, but after that we had to watch out for big frogs! We didn’t see any big frogs lurking in the water, but we didn’t take any chances!!! I did notice that some of the oars were damaged….were they frog bites? Lee thinks that the guy was actually talking about rocks.
We also had a chance to go up to the shoe factory at Naot-Mordechai. Cool shoes! Naot and Source sandals.
We proceeded further north and hired a guide who took us up through the Golan. The area is beautiful. There are hills on either side of the Jordan river and then further north, there are mountains. The guide explained the water supplies to Israel from the mountains to the north. He also explained some of the interesting changes that are taking place on the modern-day Kibbutz. A Kibbutz is a communal village. He explained that people were taking advantage of the resources without working to generate profits, so many of them went belly up. He told us that they have now gone to a system of individual reward for labor. The housing is still free. If the people who live there work, they receive money. If they do not, they don’t.
At last, a call to prayer. It is Friday afternoon and we have arrived at the Dead Sea. We have now been in Israel just over a week. We have been to some of the most holy of places in the Jewish religion, and I have not had a religious epiphany until today. As we drove down from The Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea, we traveled through the West Bank which is a Palestinian area. Lee was a bit nervous, was driving and was in a hurry to get through. As she passed a bus on a blind curve and another car decided to make a left behind the bus, I experienced religion in a new way. Perhaps that is why this is such a religious region. Perhaps the true drive for spiritual intervention and guidance is really a call for better driving. We are now at the hotel, I have changed my drawers and can resume my fairly secular life.
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