Day 4 near the border

Day 4
It is Monday. We had the good fortune to start the day with a walk around the city of Yokne’am where Chaim and Margie live. Chaim pointed out the industrial development that is causing this area to thrive. Only recently, the area was declared a city as a result of it amassing a population of over 25,000. We hiked briskly through the forest that was planted by a corps of government workers ala “the New Deal.” It is remarkable how an area can be reshaped by this sort of program. The simple governmental policy of using people who are otherwise not working, and making them useful by having them reshape the landscape is plainly brilliant. The people who are already on social programs, or who would otherwise be unemployed, can actively contribute to the reshaping of the region.

We spoke of many things as we hiked. I immediately asked about government tolerance, as it is a subject that I find quite interesting. Chaim said that the Israeli government takes freedom of speech quite seriously. He pointed out that there is proof of this tolerance by observing that people feel free to speak their mind in abundance. There is no lack of opinion here. I asked about governmental monitoring. He told me that he assumes that the government is observing what people are saying and doing because of the constant battle against terrorism and conflicts with neighboring countries. Tolerance yes, but not ignorance.

We also spoke about property. Property ownership here falls into two categories. Most of the land is government owned and leased to citizens on 99 year leases. There are some properties that are owned outright based on some long history of the purchase of the property by Baron Rothschild. I cannot give you more insight into this right now, because I have not researched it. However, the system seems to parallel the system in China pretty closely, except for the actual outright ownership of property which does not occur in China.

Israel is a country that welcomes Jews from around the world. There is a certain level of control over other immigration, but Jews have a “birthright” provided by the government to come to Israel. It is the Jewish melting pot internationally in that Israel had its arms open to any Jew that wants to immigrate here. Many Russians and Ethiopians have moved here fleeing oppression in their homelands. Before that came the Moroccans. Before that, many others. It is a homecoming to a region that was the ancient homeland of the Jewish people. Internationally, Jews contribute to this cause by supporting Israel.

Israel is a tiny country surrounded by middle eastern giants that make her look like a cute little birth mark on a large middle eastern ass. Despite its tiny size, it has been uniquely successful in providing education, consistent food, consistent shelter and a better life for Jews and its other citizens alike. While the leadership of the surrounding countries talk of destroying Israel, she continues to produce great technological, scientific, agricultural and other achievement that benefits the entire world. It is truly a shame that the other middle eastern countries do not attempt to emulate these successes.

After the hike, we had a quick breakfast and left for Haifa to go see the gardens of the ***BaiHai religion. This religion seems to be a melting pot for all of the other religions. There was a religious patriarch who died and was first buried elsewhere, and then moved to Haifa. The net result was a beautiful garden was developed in his honor. The grounds of the facility run up the Carmel mountainside and are quite extraordinary. I was not moved by its religious significance, but I was by its sheer beauty. The views from it of Haifa are breathtaking. We walked down the 800 or so steps and took a taxi back up to where our car was parked.

We left Haifa and traveled north to go to Rosh HaNikra. On the way, we stopped at Akko to see the Crusader castle ruins and to have a Falafel. The ruins were interesting. The Falafel was a thing of beauty! We then went to see the grottos of Rosh HaNikra. As we traveled up to that area which is right on the Lebanese border, we drove by cities that had been attacked by rockets from the north last summer. What a shame to have such misery befall this lovely place. We traveled back south and grabbed a coffee in Nahariya. The city was beautiful and had been economically devastated by the Lebanese conflict of last summer. Some businesses did not survive. We picked up Margie on the way back down and had a quick dinner with her and Chaim. What a treat it was to share their warm company once again. We then hit the road to the bed and breakfast in Zvat where we will be staying for the next two nights. It is charming!!! (Thanks again to Lee for arranging this amazing adventure!)

I will end this day’s note by talking about a question that was put to me by Chaim. He asked, “what do you think of the country so far.” I gave him a quick reply commenting on how nice the country and the people are. “Nice” is such hollow praise. I have considered the question more as we drove out to Zvat. I will try to answer it here. I am not one to buy into the notion that my DNA is in some way connected to this land. I have no more right to claim this land because of my faith as any other person has a right to claim any “thing” based on theirs. This land is a patch of dirt. Allow me to compare it to the raw earthy material spat by worms. When a person takes that earthy bug byproduct, and carefully treats it, unwinds it, dyes it and weaves it into a beautiful tapestry, then that person has a claim to the tapestry as something that person has shaped from the earth. That person has a claim to that tapestry as something that is now part of him.

Since the state of Israel came into existence only a generation or two ago, the Jewish people have transformed it from a desert into an oasis. Israel is both the land and the people. They…no….we have made flowers bloom and fruit grow where it was thought impossible. We have created a society that supports its own, while holding out its ideas openly for all those around her to join in and emulate her success. It is the promised land from God, not just for Jews, but for all those who would join her principles and share in her beauty, not necessarily of religion, but the social justice and principles a progressive culture can inspire. The silk has carefully been extracted, colored with Israeli endeavor, sweat and blood, and the tapestry has been woven. I helped to weave it through Zadakah (charitable contributions) I have made since I was a young child. I have threads in this tapestry. As US citizens, so do we all, through contributions of our tax dollars from our government. We reap from what we have helped to sew by the many great achievements by Israelis that have improved people’s standards of living internationally and made the world a better place. I am truly glad that I have a part in this magical place, and knowing that I do, I feel a connection to it that is deeply rooted within me.

Two things happened today that colored my answer, so I will share them. As I walked through a mall today while waiting for Margie to meet up with us near Haifa on our way back to their home, I observed several Israeli soldiers. They were in their uniforms carrying packs and they had their rifles hanging at their sides. They were young and strong. It was hot, and I was uncomfortable in my shorts and t-shirt carrying my water bottle and camera. I would have complained that the rifle was too heavy. They did not. I see Israel carrying a similar burden. Carrying the gun is heavy in my perception because it is the weight of being hated. It is the burden of having to use deadly force to keep others from killing you. Israel is not perfect, but she carries this burden with grace and her people continue to toil to do great things even while carrying that ever present burden.

Earlier in the day, we were trying to park on the top of Haifa up near Carmel. I did not have change to buy a parking ticket. I needed two Sheckles more for the 10 Sheckle parking ticket. A man who had good naturedly responded to my questions about parking in the area, did not have enough coins to change a 20 sheckle note. He handed me a 10 Sheckle coin (about $2.50) and said, “you are tourists. Keep it.” I tried to give him the 20 Sheckle note, but he refused.

So Chaim, if I have not already answered your question, I will simply add that this is a place and people of unique beauty, grace and character. However, they can’t drive worth a crap!